|background image by Tommy Ton / source: style.com|
NYFW has wrapped and it's that time of the year again when bloggers go nuts (myself included). Fashion week for me encompasses a series of actions such as taking down notes, reading editors' reviews, watching designers' interviews, comparing collections to previous ones, reflecting and ultimately forming my own opinion.
Anna Wintour stated that the designers that were the most successful this season where the ones whose collections conveyed confidence. The designers who stayed true to their vision stood out the most, whereas others seemed to be a little out of touch and all over the place. The most memorable collections are definitely those that have a strong and distinct point of view, the ones that feel perfectly aligned to the designer's state of mind. I couldn't agree more.
I changed up the layout of my fashion week recaps this time, which means I'm going to feature only the ones that stood out to me, not the ones that were particularly my personal favorites but the ones that I feel had more of an impact. Besides, being a fashion connaisseur is less about personal preference and more about appreciating good work.
Let me insert here my little disclaimer: my personal take on designers' work is not intended to offend anyone. You can love what I hate and you can hate what I love and that's alright. That's fashion. Fashion is the co-existence of different points-of-view and different aesthetics.
Tommy Hilfiger, an American sportswear classic, did this season what he does best -guess what- sportswear. Very college-like and preppy, sometimes a bit too literal, but it certainly made an impression. He turned his runway into a football field and the models paraded like elegant, dressed-up football players in their jerseys, ribbed tights and lace-up boots. He's definitely not the one to push the envelope, but he's the designer that caters to a crowd that doesn't look for groundbreaking elements and provocation, but rather simple, practical yet luxe clothes. Does that justify their price points? It's up to you to judge.
Marc Jacobs is the master of dark, eerie femininity. This collection felt very true to who he is as a designer and extremely polished. Backstage he mentioned that all the "pleated" skirts didn't really consist of pleats but rather stripes of fabric. The coats were double-faced and the shoes were polished by actual shoe polishers. Every detail was addressed and taken care of. The fabrics were lush, the construction exquisite, the result captivating. MJ is a an excellent showman after all. The collection had some strong LV vibes from the time that Marc was in charge.
Michael Kors, one of the biggest names in American fashion, presented a collection that felt very him, very consistent to his work but elevated. It makes you wonder, how Kors who has built an empire on selling very commercial monogrammed handbags and watches (which are considered tacky for some) can present something so luxe and upscale when given the chance. It is not to wonder, actually. Michael Kors has a very deep understanding of the market and the industry but he also understands women and what they want. For this season, he showed a collection that felt very luxurious, wearable and covetable. He mentioned Faye Dunaway in the 70s film-noir "Chinatown" as one of his inspirations. The outcome was very elegant, effortless and high-quality with a bit of English-ness to it.
Tibi is one of those contemporary brands whose clothes make for good streetwear. The effect is easy and effortless but without feeling improper or unpolished. The Tibi girl is so cool, you want to be her. This fashion is very right now, very urban and very practical. Culottes were the recurring theme in this collection as in others too (it's happening guys - culottes are back). I personally loved the palette, it felt very fresh and modern. Loved the pastels as well as the combination of light grey and cocoa brown, and the assortment of plums too.
Oscar De La Renta
Chez Oscar De La Renta, things got emotional. There were certain expectations to be met after Oscar's passing last year. The house will never be the same without him. Peter Copping made a significant effort, especially if you take into account that the collection was put together in a 3 month span. That proved to be quite the challenge for a designer who has to carry the burden of continuing the founder's legacy. Copping was highly praised for the outcome and is expected to bring a new air to the house of Oscar De La Renta in the future. This collection was honoring Oscar and bidding farewell do the days of his glory. Hopeful as Copping's fans may be, Oscar and his impeccable work will be greatly missed.
Leave it to Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez to deliver the most exciting, envelope-pushing clothing. The fashion duo never fails to impress and present something new that makes fashionistas worlwide tingle. This is the kind of fashion that always leaves you wanting more, not because it's inadequate but because you simply can't get enough. The collection featured beautiful textiles, peek-a-boo stockings, strategic cut outs and an interesting play on proportion. The result looked very art-y and intentionally undone. It felt very raw but in no way incomplete. Everything was thought through. There was a bit of a tribal theme going on as well which I loved and that added to the wow factor. The sequined numbers were a sight for sore eyes.The color palette that paraded on the runway consisted of the magical trio: red, black and white. It never goes wrong.
A NYFW recap without Alexander Wang feels like a disgrace. Wang was another that remained very true to his roots, without being repetitive. There was definitely a significant amount of black, much to Anna Wintour's dismay (and mine too may I add), but what's a Wang collection without black? This is streetwear at its best. It's hip, it's modern, it's what young people want. It's provocative without being vulgar. There were lots of leather, velvet and some serious punk vibes. The clothes felt more luxe than they did in his previous collections, which I enjoyed very much. The end result definitely felt elevated. It's good to know that some designers keep evolving and pushing their limits.
Jason Wu does no wrong in my eyes. If you ask me which girl you want to be, I'll say I want to be the Jason Wu girl, in a heartbeat. The man knows clean, polished, elegant garments. Is he somewhat predictable? Maybe. Does he deliver clothes I wish to own? Abso-fuckin-lutely (yes I just said that). I've said it before and I'll say it again: there's the provocateurs who will rock your world with crazy, innovative ideas and there are also the ones who will offer wearable but perfected clothes. Sometimes the latter is what you wish for and Wu is the man to deliver that. I think there comes a point when you've had enough of those insane garments that look amazing from a distance but up close are a complete mess. Sometimes all a gal wants is a perfectly tailored pant, a lush fur coat, a beautiful bias-cut silk dress. Jason offered an amazing collection this season that included a lot of khakis, a few pops of bright red but mostly neutrals. The collection felt earthy, seductive, and grown-up. Or as Jason put it: "sophisticated and decadent".
Altuzarra showed a serious dose of sexiness with this collection. He loves the "perversion", as he stated backstage. This collection definitely felt more amped up compared to his previous work, and the sexy card was played up even more. The fabrics used felt more expensive than ever while there was almost a BDSM vibe to the collection. I loved the high necklines and the keyhole openings in the blouses and dresses. Altuzarra's woman looks confident, empowered, grown up. Loved the marriage between innocence (white lace, comme-il-faut tweed) and seduction (leather, thigh-high boots, slits, low necklines). It was definitely a collection that didn't go unnoticed.
(all images are taken from style.com/ opinions and reviews are my own)
Which collections have stood out to you so far? Please let me know.
Stay tuned for more fashion week highlights.